Green and Gold

I tried a new processing technique with this one, rather than the usual one handed effort (the other hand is rocking 5.5month old tickles) – which by the way should excuse my terrible spelling and grammar 🙂
anyway,..this time i pulled out the baby carrier, or as i refer to it as..the back killer, clearly not designed for large men….and plonked tickles in it, this means i can process with two hands, spend quality time with tickles and listen to classical whilst she falls asleep…multitasking is my middle name…the other is lazy 😉

In all seriousness, this is another image from Lawson, this great set of falls permits one to easily climb up onto the rock steps and compose as one wishes, in this case I am going through a little pano waterfall phase and as such follows that theme.

3 frame pano image, each frame manually bracketed to achieve the desired dynamic range.

Techie data:
D7000 with Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 @ 11mm Aperture: f/8 Shutter 10, 3 & 30 seonds
out front – Hoya screw in circular polariser and neutral density filter (3 stops)

As always, I welcome any suggestions, comments and improvements to my photography, they are always warmly welcomed

38 thoughts on “Green and Gold

  1. curiosity calling; and asking on behalf of the many wondering how wide is the w/fall? And why you use an UWA to do a stitched panorama instead of one 'normal' photo. My guess is to get more MP into your picture as I do but I prefer to use a bit longer lens.
    Maybe you could explain for all those who look, wonder but never ask 😉
    And I would think your work has sold a lot of Tokina 11-16mm lenses; if I go back to a non ff dslr I would get one based on your photography and photos

    Great photo mate, stunning composition, colours and water movement

  2. +Ian Browne
    probably the best way to explain it – one normal shot at 11mm (landscape orientation) would capture just the water and a tiny bit of green on the right, that is basically the middle shot in teh pano. Two reasons for using multiple UW images stitched together 1) to achieve the full width of the scene and 2) to get the pano ratio (without cropping), obvioulsy a byproduct of all this is more meagpixels (however not that many really since there nearly 50 overlap)
    you probably could use a longer lens, however whilst these shots do 'look' open and airy quite often my back is up against a tree/rock which means gettign close is the only way to encapsulate the entire falls.
    Another important point regarding panos and this is only my opinion, is that its lots easier to take a pano shot than a normal 3:4 format since i find less thought required for a pano composition (prolly a little quirky but hey 🙂 )
    The tokina 11-16mm is a great lens albeit a terrible range, pretty much a prime lens.
    Another note regarding these panos, there is significant distortion when the stitched image comes out, it does take some effort in PS to correct it to bring it back to the proper format 🙂

  3. Thanks Gerald, the w/f doesn't look that big/wide
    Had wondered about distortion; poor old PS must hate these UWA lol. Good info there for everyone try.
    And I would like to point out to the less experience that Panos are not hard do and most hype about panos is just that; hype and hot air. I hand hold when taking most pano images but a tripod is always good idea. (I'm just lazy). However imo we don't need an expensive panorama tripod head. Programs like PS do must of the work.
    BTW: usually best to have the camera vertical when taking three + images to be stitched.

  4. +Gerard Blacklock me too, a lot changes as you age, and a lot stays the same. I still like music from my youth, but I've added Classical and even (some) Opera, Philosophy is also a new interest for me.

    It's a bastard that you live your whole life, and finally become a fully grounded, responsible human being, you then kick the bucket. 🙂

    (One also rambles more with age)

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